Pakol
Pakol (Khowar: پاکول, Shina: ، Pashto: পাইول, Urdu: پاکول: پاکول) mai laushi ne, mai laushi, mai launi, mai lauri, wanda aka saba sawa a Afghanistan da Pakistan.[1][2][3] Yawanci ana yin sa ne da ulu kuma ana samun sa a cikin launuka daban-daban, kamar launin ruwan kasa, baƙar fata, launin toka, hauren giwa, ko ja ta amfani da walnut. An yi imanin cewa Pakol ya samo asali ne a Chitral, ko Gilgit-Baltistan a Pakistan.[4][5]
 Pakol | |
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headgear (en)  |
Bayyanawa
gyara sasheAna sanya pakol kamar beret: mai sa zai iya daidaitawa da daidaita girman don dacewa da yanayi, yanayi da girma kuma ana iya amfani dashi don ayyuka da yawa idan an buƙata. Pakol kanta tana da amfani sosai kuma tana da dadi. Yana da kyau musamman ga yanayin sanyi. Maza suna sa pakol duk shekara a yanayin sanyi, saboda hat ɗin yana aiki da kyau don kariya daga sanyi, iska, da rana. Saboda kyawawan ulu na halitta da aka yi amfani da shi don yin pakol, kai ba ya gumi, ko daskarewa, komai abin da yanayin yake. Abubuwan suna da hygroscopic, duk da haka hular ba ta jin rigar a yanayin ruwan sama, kuma ba ta bushe. Wannan ya sa ya zama tufafi masu kyau ga Pakistan da Afghanistan.
Yana da murfin ulu na hannu, wanda aka kafa tare da shimfiɗa, mai zagaye, wanda aka kewaye shi da ƙananan ƙuƙwalwa. Yawancin lokaci fari ne, launin toka, ko launuka daban-daban na launin ruwan kasa. Tsarin ƙirar ƙwallo yana ba da damar ja shi ƙasa don rufe kunnuwa da wuyansa a yanayin sanyi da mirgina shi don yanayin zafi. Akwai hanyoyi da yawa na yin ado da tufafi, wani lokacin yawanci sanya furanni ko gashin tsuntsaye a cikin hular, musamman don lokutan biki. Kayan da aka haɗa a kusa da tushe yana ba da daidaitawa da sassauci na amfani. Ta hanyar karfafawa ko sassauta igiyar, mai sa shi yana iya riƙe hular kamar yadda ake buƙata.[6]
Asalin da tarihi
gyara sashePakol ya samo asali ne a Chitral, ko kuma daidai a Gilgit, Astore da yankunan da ke kewaye da Gilgit-Baltistan a Pakistan. Gidan ulu ya kasance babban kayan ado na mutanen Shina da mutanen Kho (wanda aka fi sani da Chitralis), na ƙarni da yawa. Har ila yau, al'ummomin Afghanistan da yawa kamar su Pashtuns, Tajiks da Nuristanis sun karbe shi kwanan nan. An karbe shi da farko a tsakanin Pashtuns na Pakistan a matsayin maye gurbin babban turban, musamman a cikin manyan biranen, kamar misali a Peshawar, saboda 'yan kasuwa na ƙauye, waɗanda kuma ke da alhakin yada shahararren Chitrali ko pakol, da farko suna fadada kasuwancin su, daga ƙarshe sun mamaye babban yanki na tsohon birnin Peshawar. Sai kawai a cikin kabilun da ke kan iyakar Afghanistan turban na gargajiya na Pashtun har yanzu yana da mashahuri. Koyaya, hotuna daga Peshawar daga ba da daɗewa ba, har yanzu suna nuna birni da turbans suka mamaye maimakon maza da ke rufe kawunansu da pakol.
Kwanan nan, an kuma gabatar da shi a cikin kwarin Kashmir ta hanyar baƙi na yanayi na kabilun Shins da suka fito daga yankunan Gurez da Tuleil a arewacin gundumar Bandipore ta Kashmir. A yau pakol da mutane na kowane matsayi na zamantakewa da asali daga Pakistan da Afghanistan ke sawa, da kuma a wasu sassan Indiya, kamar a Jammu da Kashmir da Delhi.
Kausia da ƙin haɗin Makidoniya
gyara sashe
Wasu marubutan sun kwatanta wannan kayan ado na musamman da kausia da mutanen Makidoniya na dā suka sa. Daga nan sai ya zama mai jaraba ga wasu marubuta su haɗa pakol da kamfen ɗin Indiya na Alexander the Great a ƙarshen ƙarni na huɗu BC. An kuma haɗa pakol da masarautun Girka-Bactrian da Indo-Girkanci na ƙarni masu zuwa. Koyaya, pakol ba shi da alaƙa ta tarihi tare da kausia. Dangane da wani kuskuren imani game da wurin asalinsa kai tsaye, pakol yana da tarihin kwanan nan a Lardin Nuristan, inda ake sawa a ko'ina a yau, yana dawowa ba da tsufa fiye da ƙarshen karni na sha tara, amma wannan kayan kwalliya ma ƙarami ne a cikin Gundumar Chitral da ke makwabtaka.
Asalin kai tsaye na pakol an sanya shi a cikin iyakar arewacin Pakistan ta zamani, a cikin Gilgit-Baltistan na yanzu, kuma yana cikin sararin samaniya mai zurfi na irin wannan siffar da aka sa a kan iyakar kasar Sin / Turkestani / Indiya. An sa murfin mai sauƙi tare da rolled-rim a duk yankin, daga inda ya bazu zuwa yamma, zuwa yankin Chitral inda aka sa shi sosai a ƙarshen 1920s. A bayyane yake a wani lokaci mutanen Chitral da yankunan da ke kusa da su sun fara haɗawa da ƙarin kayan zagaye don samar da kambi mai laushi.[7] Wannan karkatarwa ta zamani ba fasalin da sojojin Alexander zasu iya ɗauka a ƙarshen ƙarni na huɗu KZ ba.[8]
Asalin, ganowa da takardu a Gilgit da Chitral
gyara sasheBambancin zamani na pakol ya samo asali ne daga Chitral. Har ila yau, an san hat din da khapol, wanda aka samo daga kalmar kapaal wanda ke nufin kai a cikin harshen Khowar. Babban tushen samarwa shine Chitral a Pakistan. An ambaci Pakol a cikin littafin Donatus O'Briens na 1895 a kan harshen Chitral, inda yake kwatanta tufafin kabilanci na mutanen Kho ya ce:
"Kayan da yawancin maza ke sawa ya kunshi baƙar fata, launin ruwan kasa ko launin toka da aka yi a cikin siffar jaka kuma an mirgine shi har sai ya dace da kwanyar. "
Daga baya a cikin 1896 George Scott Robertson ya bayyana "Chitrali Cap".
John Biddulph a cikin kabilun Hindoo Koosh (1880), ya yi magana game da "kashin gashi mai laushi" kuma ya danganta shi ga mutanen Shina na Gilgit, Astore da yankunan da ke kewaye da shi a arewacin Pakistan na yanzu.[4] Biddulph ya kuma ce a wasu sassan yammacin arewacin Pakistan na zamani, kamar Wakhan, Chitral da Sarikol, mutane sun kasance suna sa ƙananan turbans.
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"A Chitral, Wakhan da Sirikol maza suna sanye da ƙananan turbans. A cikin Gilgit, Astor, da kuma mafi yawan Yaghestan ana amfani da murfin ulu da Mista Drew ya ambata. A cikin rukunin Shin mata marasa aure ana rarrabe su da fararen murfi, wanda matan Shin masu aure ba sa sawa.
Magana ta farko game da pakol don haka yana nufin iyakar arewacin Pakistan ta zamani, yayin da a lokaci guda a yankunan da suka fi kusa da yamma da kudu, gami da Chitral, mutane har yanzu sun fi son sa turban.[4] Wannan zai nuna cewa a cikin ƙasashe har ma da yamma, har yanzu ba a san pakol ba.[4]
Shahararren pakol ya koma yamma a ƙarshen shekarun 1920, lokacin da Georg Morgenstierne ya ziyarci gundumar Chitral kuma ya ɗauki hotunan mazauna garin suna sanye da pakol, kodayake hotunan suna nuna cewa pakol ba shi da kambi mai laushi na zamani na Chitrali kuma ya fi kama da nau'in pakol har yanzu ana sawa a Hunza, wanda zai iya wakiltar "asalin" nau'in Pakol.[9]
Yakin Kafiristan da tallafin da Nuristanis suka yi
gyara sashePakol wani sabon abu ne na baya-bayan nan a lardin Nuristan, ana gabatar da shi daga makwabciyar Chitral a wani lokaci a ƙarshen karni na sha tara.[10] Dangane da rubuce-rubuce na farko, mazaunan Kafiristan, Nuristanis, sun tafi ba tare da wani kayan kwalliya ba.[11] Har ila yau, suna amfani da aske kawunansu, suna barin ƙaramin yanki a kan kambi inda aka bar gashi ya girma, yana rataye sau da yawa har zuwa kugu.
A farkon tushen pakol a Nuristan ta George Scott Robertson, yana nufin pakol a matsayin hular Chitrali kuma ya bayyana cewa an sanya ta ne kawai a cikin kwarin Bashgul, kwarin gabas na Kafiristan mai iyaka da Chitral, kuma an samu hular daga Chitral. a gabas ta hanyar ciniki. Sabili da haka, an nuna a ɗan gajeren gabatarwar zuwa Afghanistan, musamman ga Nuristan na pakol. Wannan batu dai ya tabbata ne da gyalen da mutanen da aka zana a cikin manya-manyan sassaken katako da aka fi sani da gandauw s, wanda Kafirai suka shahara da shi, wanda duk ya samo asali ne tun kafin Afganistan ta mamaye Kafiristan a karshen shekarun 1890, inda aka nuna mutanen sanye da su. rawani. Bugu da ƙari, tsofaffi da matasa sun fara a cikin Kalash, yanzu suna zaune a kan iyaka a Pakistan, kuma a al'adance suna sanye da rawani, yayin da duk sauran ke sanye da pakol.
Pakols dole ne ya bazu cikin sauri tsakanin mazauna yankin, yanzu an sake masa suna Nuristanis, bayan kuma a wani bangare sakamakon nasarar da Abdul Rahman Khan na Afghanistan ya yi wa Kafiristan. Bude kwarin don kara hulɗa da kasuwanci, da kuma juyowa ga jama'a zuwa Islama, ya sa mazauna su watsar da salon gashin kansu na baya kuma su rufe kawunansu da hat. Amincewa da takamaiman kayan tufafi don nuna sabon ainihi, musamman na addini, an kafa shi sosai a tarihi.
Shahararren farko a Afghanistan
gyara sasheA cikin shekarun 1980s, pakol ya sami karbuwa a manyan sassan Afghanistan a matsayin wanda aka fi so a sanya kayan ado na Mujahideen, wanda ya yi yaƙi da Jamhuriyar Demokradiyyar Afghanistan da magoya bayansu na Soviet. Ɗaya daga cikin shahararrun mutanen da ke sanye da pakol shine shugaban soja na kwarin Panjshir Ahmad Shah Massoud . A cikin waɗannan shekarun, mutane daga ko'ina cikin Afghanistan, amma musamman daga cikin mutanen Tajik na Panjshir, waɗanda ke zaune a yankin da ke kan iyaka da Nuristan, sun sa pakol don nuna adawarsu ga gwamnati.
A shekara ta 1992 Mujahideen sun mallaki babban birnin Kabul, kuma tun lokacin da Tajiks daga arewa maso gabashin kasar suka taka muhimmiyar rawa wajen kafa sabuwar gwamnatin Jihar Musulunci ta Afghanistan, pakol din su ya zama babban abin hawa na babban birnin Afghanistan. Koyaya, yakin basasa tsakanin jam'iyyun Mujahideen daban-daban ya ci gaba tare da sabon bayyanar Taliban, waɗanda galibi Pashtuns ne daga kudancin ƙasar kuma suna adawa da pakol da ke sanye da Mujahideens daga arewa maso gabas. Taliban sun kasance suna sa turbans, kayan gargajiya na Pashtun, wanda ya fi dacewa da nau'ikan duhu na Kandahar, yayin da abokan adawar su suka ci gaba da sanya pakol.Lokacin da Taliban suka mallaki Kabul a watan Satumbar 1996, pakol ya ɓace daga tituna, sai kawai ya dawo lokacin da a watan Nuwamba na shekara ta 2001, Northern Alliance tare da taimakon sojojin Amurka suka sami nasarar kawar da Taliban. A wannan lokacin pakol ya sake samun shahara, yayin da Pashtuns daga kudu da kudu maso gabashin kasar, wadanda suka kasance tushen kungiyar Taliban, har yanzu sun fi son sanya turban.
Shahararren farko a Indiya
gyara sasheMutanen Shina na arewacin Jammu da kwarin Gurez na Kashmir (ciki har da Tulail) sun sa pakol a al'ada a Indiya. An kuma sa Pakol a cikin kwarin Kashmir a wasu lokuta na tsawon shekaru, inda 'yan gudun hijira na Shins / Dards, daga Gurez suka gabatar da shi. Wani marubuci tare da jaridar da ke cikin kwarin, ya ce game da murfin cewa ya zama sananne a cikin shekarun 1950 bayan Bakshi Ghulam Mohammad, Babban Ministan Jammu da Kashmir ya yi wasa. Pakol ya zama sananne a wasu sassan Indiya, kamar a Delhi, 'yan Afghanistan da ke zaune a Indiya suna sayar da shi. Har ila yau, ya sami karbuwa a yankunan da Musulmai suka fi yawa a arewacin Indiya, musamman yankunan da ke kusa da wuraren ibada inda bambancin da aka karkatar ya fi shahara.
Nau'o'in pakol daban-daban
gyara sasheA cikin Pakistan da Afghanistan, akwai nau'ikan pakol daban-daban da kabilun da yankuna daban-daban ke sawa. Wadannan bambance-bambance sun kasance a cikin siffofi da salo, kuma wani lokacin na musamman ne ga wani yanki ko kabilanci.
Pakol na gargajiya
gyara sasheHat din pakol na gargajiya yana da taushi, hat din ulu wanda yake kwance, kuma ana mirgine rims a cikin tufafin kai don a sa. An yi shi da ulu kuma ya zo da launuka daban-daban, yawanci launuka na ƙasa na halitta sune mafi yawanci ake sawa. An fi sawa a lardin Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, Gilgit-Baltistan, Afghanistan kuma kwanan nan a kwarin Kashmir.
Chitrali pakol
gyara sasheChitrali pakol ne ke sa da Chitral Scouts na Arewacin Pakistan. Yana da fari, yana da alamar alama, kuma yana da gashin tsuntsu. An dauke shi alamar mutunci da girmamawa tsakanin al'ummar Chitrali kuma yawanci suna gabatar da shi ga sanannun baƙi. Wannan salon pakol na musamman ne ga yankin. Gimbiya Diana, Kate Middleton da Yarima William sun sa shi yayin ziyarar da suka kai Pakistan.
Pakol mai laushi
gyara sasheTwisted pakol wani bambanci ne na pakol; yana da yadudduka biyu kuma rims suna karkatarwa. An yi shi da ulu mai tsabta kuma ya zo da launuka da girma daban-daban. Twisted pakol ya zama ruwan dare a Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, Afghanistan da Kashmir. Yana da nauyi kuma ana iya daidaita shi da sauƙi fiye da na gargajiya.
Waziristan Pakistan
gyara sasheAn sa shi a Waziristan, yankunan kabilanci na Pakistan, irin wannan pakol yawanci kuma kusan na musamman ne Pashtuns na Waziristan kamar Mahsud, Dawar, da Wazir. Babban bambanci tsakanin Waziristan pakol, da pakol na yau da kullun, shine cewa ya fi girma a girmansa, kuma gefuna suna da tuddai masu lankwasawa. Yana da banbanci ga yankunan Waziristan kuma an yi shi da ulu mai tsabta, yana samuwa a launuka daban-daban, kamar pakol na gargajiya. Har ila yau, kabilun Kin Pashtun ne ke sawa a fadin iyaka a Afghanistan a lardunan Paktia da Khost; yawanci ana yin musu ado da furanni, Ba kamar Chitralis waɗanda ke yin ado da gashin tsuntsaye ba. An dauke shi tufafin maza na yau da kullun.
Bayanan da aka yi amfani da su
gyara sashe- ↑ Chico, Beverly (2013-10-03). Hats and Headwear around the World: A Cultural Encyclopedia: A Cultural Encyclopedia. ABC-CLIO. p. 367. ISBN 978-1-61069-063-8.
Sometimes referred to as the chitral hat, its origins can be traced to northwest Pakistan, where it was initially made by tribal women for shepherds.
- ↑ "From Alexander the Great to Ahmad Shah Massoud: A Social History of the Pakol | Afghanistan Analysts Network". 3 January 2014. Retrieved 2020-02-20.
Finally, Chitral’s claim to the original ownership of the pakol is also supported by the fact that the place used to be at the center of the pakol‘s early “range of distribution”, which at the beginning of the 20th century encompassed mainly Northern Swat, Gilgit, Hunza, and Nuristan.
- ↑ "Grammar and vocabulary of the K̲h̲owâr dialect (Chitrâli)". digital.soas.ac.uk. 1895. p. 8. Archived from the original on 2022-02-27. Retrieved 2023-07-10.
The dress worn by most men consists of a black, brown, or grey homespun cap made in the shape of a bag and rolled up until it fits the skull.
- ↑ 4.0 4.1 4.2 4.3 Vogelsang, Willem (2006). "The Pakol: A Distinctive, but Apparently not so Very Old Headgear from the Indo-Iranian Borderlands". Khil'a. 2: 149–155. doi:10.2143/KH.2.0.2021290.
- ↑ Biddulph, John (1880). Tribes of the Hindoo Koosh. Office of the superintendent of government printing. p. 74.
In Chitral, Wakhan and Sirikol the men wear very small, scanty turbans. In Gilgit, Astor, and the greater part of Yaghestan the rolled woollen cap mentioned by Mr. Drew is commonly worn. In the Shin caste, unmarried women are distinguished by a white cap, which is never worn by married Shin women.
- ↑ Chico, Beverly (2013-10-03). Hats and Headwear around the World: A Cultural Encyclopedia: A Cultural Encyclopedia. ABC-CLIO. p. 367. ISBN 978-1-61069-063-8.
- ↑ Cite error: Invalid
<ref>tag; no text was provided for refs named:7 - ↑ "Pakistan wears many hats, literally". Aajentertainment.tv. 2022-02-24.
- ↑ Empty citation (help)
- ↑ Empty citation (help)Vogelsang, Willem (2006). "The Pakol: A Distinctive, but Apparently not so Very Old Headgear from the Indo-Iranian Borderlands". Khil'a. 2: 149–155. doi:10.2143/KH.2.0.2021290.
So far we have seen that the pakol is a fairly recent sartorial innovation in Nuristan, being introduced, together with other types of garment, from neighbouring Chitral sometime in the late nineteenth century.
- ↑ Empty citation (help)Vogelsang, Willem (2006). "The Pakol: A Distinctive, but Apparently not so Very Old Headgear from the Indo-Iranian Borderlands". Khil'a. 2: 153–154. doi:10.2143/KH.2.0.2021290.